Re-Assessment

Okay, I've been back a week and have had some time to reflect on some things. I imagine due to the scale of this trip I'll have some reflection for some time to come. However I've have found some things that I want to commit to bytes to remember in the future.

First I've thought about my two summit attempts. The second on Cayambe seems to make a lot of sense regarding turning around. The mountain dictates who will climb her and when. This day was simply not our day and I have complete peace with that decision.

Cotopaxi vexes me only slightly but let me explain why. I was suffering pretty hard on that climb, but so was everyone else. Though at the time it did seem like I was having more difficulty than some.

One point that gives me some contention is that the rope leading to the climber behind me went taught quite often on the 1800 foot initial face and then again often on the higher pitches that were even steeper. At the risk of calling someone out this was my situation: I was breathing incredibly hard, though not as technically efficient as I should have been. Each step was an effort often preceded by 3 and even 4 pressure breaths. I would physically and mentally prepare myself for my next step, galvanizing myself for the effort, then perform the act. And then, midway through this effort the rope would go taught and I could not complete my step. The effect of this was that I would make a sort of half step, and the rope in front of me would potentially also go taught. Further, since we were on 60 degree or so ice, foot placement was crucial.

On this type of terrain you must be very efficient with your effort, in this vain you look for the optimal place to put your foot. A spot that will allow you to be secure and stable while allowing minimal effort to hold yourself there. If you can't make a step like this it doesn't take but a few seconds for your calves and other leg muscles to start a major burn. Couple this with the fact that you are processing maybe half the oxygen you are at sea level and now you have a situation where you are incapable of processing and eliminating the lactic acid.

This was my situation for most of the day on Cotopaxi and I was not strong enough to help get two people up that mountain. Now I can't say that this was the single cause of my need to turn around, but I doubt it helped my effort. I did not say anything to the guides, and perhaps I should have, but I didn't want to call anyone out on the mountain. However I think the root of my issues was simply a lack of acclimatization or lack of cardio-fitness, perhaps both. In retrospect I think Diamox might have helped the former, but the guides were adamant that I not take any. It seems that diamox is a good preemptive treatment and not so good at reactive treatment. In other words, if you are going to take it, it seems like the most benefit is during acclimatizing not after. I'll keep this nugget of knowledge put away for next time...

Now about that Cardio-Fitness issue. I knew all along that I wasn't sure whether stair climbing was Cardio-intensive enough for this climb. Here's how fitness played out. Basically I could not get my muscles enough oxygen to do their work. When I turned around on Cotopaxi I was not sore, or fatigued. I was dizzy and seeing stars. This wasn't the result of my muscles or my resolve or my energy giving out, it was the direct result of not having enough oxygen. I think the only way to prepare myself for that situation at sea level is to improve my cardio-fitness. I wasn't the only one coming from sea level so I wasn't the only one dealing with this situation.

After my 10 hour attempt on Cotopaxi going up 3500' and back down I was tired sure, I'd been up since 11PM, but I was not fatigued and the next day I was not sore anywhere. Muscles need fuel. That fuel is oxygen. My muscles were running on empty because I was incapable of providing that fuel. I was not diligent or efficient enough in my breathing methods, and perhaps my Cardio-fitness level was not where it needed to be.

On Cayambe I knew, and was coached repeatedly by Jake, that I needed to be completely focused on my breathing. I needed to put maximal effort into it. I did this. I was pressure breathing on every breath on summit day. There are varying levels of effort in pressure breathing and sitting around was one level, climbing up 50 degree ice was a whole other level. I stayed focused on this but putting this much effort into breathing can wear on you. I remember at one point on Cayambe that I was just so tired of breathing. My legs felt great, even my neck wasn't too sore from carrying a helmet and head lamp, but my head and breathing parts were very tired of the effort that absolutely had to be put into breathing. And I could feel the difference. If I forgot, or chose not, to breath with maximal effort I got tired quickly and when I'd start to pressure breath really hard my head and legs would feel better.

So the hardest part for me at these elevations was simply the act of breathing itself. Secondary to that was eating. At these elevations you simply don't want to eat. In fact some foods you scarf on at home actually seem revolting up there. I had a hard time eating Poptarts, Peanut butter, and I didn't want anywhere near the amount of candy I'd brought.

So in a nutshell I suffered primarily from lack of fuel, be it O's or Sugar.

Now I just got back from the gym a little while ago where I rode the bike for 20 minutes and ran on the treadmill for 20 minutes. Running on the treadmill was a revelation! I've been climbing thousands of stairs for months. My walking and stair climbing muscles are very strong and fit! Running is nearly purely a cardiovascular exercise. There is muscle involved but not the level of climbing stairs or riding a bike. When running you work your heart and you work your lungs. In my 20 minutes on the treadmill I could feel my lack of cardiovascular fitness. WOW! What a surprise! As I was running I thought to myself "Wow, just doing this 3 times a week after the stairs probably would have made the difference of my summiting or not...". I now think that is a true statement.

I know everyone is different and the way one's body responds to work will be different than another's. However way back when I put up my survey on cardio exercises, I probably knew the truth. I needed to make my lungs and heart stronger and while stairs whipped my lower body into shape it simply was not enough punishment for the these blood oxygenating tools I have.

Another discovery from my trip down south is that I lost 10 pounds. Despite all the beer and fats and hi-carb foods. That gives some indication to what we were doing to ourselves down there.

I feel I am a better climber now than before this trip and I think I have a better understanding what it takes to prepare for a trip like this. I did not have any HAPE, HACE, or AMS issues down there. So it would seem my body will accept life in these altitudes for at least a short duration. I think I improved on my stepping and breathing techniques due to an abundance of practice time... I also bugged the guides regularly about the terrain so I learned more about how some things look under certain conditions. I also learned some new knots so that was fun.

Overall the guides allow for a level of expertise that I very likely will not attain. Mountains of this size require respect. However local mountains in the lower 48, I feel many of them are now within my reach. I'm no pro mountaineer but I feel I have improved my competence somewhat, plus I've always been comfortable in a pack on my back or in a tent or on a trail...

So the future is bright. There are other mountains I want to climb and I DO still want to climb! I wasn't sure if my interest or drive would wane after this trip but if anything the opposite has happened! More than likely to the chagrin of Mandi...

Ciao,
Ray